northeast to southwest

On a cross country drive there's a lot of time to think about why you're doing what you're doing. In the larger scheme of things, but also in the moment--like, why are we driving all day long? I think that that thought is one of the reasons to love long drives. Caitlin, my partner on the road, mentioned a meditative exercise where you sit and concentrate on sensation starting from your toes moving up, so that you become acutely aware of yourself piece by piece. Watching long stretches of road feels similar. You notice sudden and subtle changes in the landscape, and in the position of your arms and legs, and in how much sun is coming through the window to warm your skin. There are moments too when you lose attention altogether, which is nice too.

Caitlin and I both have clinical rotations on Indian health reservations in the Southwest for the month of October. She's doing ob-gyn in Gallup New Mexico, and I'm doing primary care in Chinle Arizona. Both places are in the middle of nowhere, hours from the nearest airport in Albuquerque. The cities are two hours from each other, and we planned on driving from Connecticut to the Southwest together since the end of summer, though most of our few concrete plans were made in the week before leaving. Another thing to love about drives, the freedom and flexibility and living out of the car and not having to carry stuff and worry too much about packaging.

The drive took us way down south on 95 (I had no idea 95 went so far), into regions of the country I'd never seen before. I've wanted to see the South for awhile, not because I had any appealing images of it but because I had no images of it at all. After a night in Maryland we drove through North Carolina, stayed along the coast in Charleston South Carolina and Savannah Georgia, saw Alabama and Mississippi through the car windows, spent a full day in New Orleans, drove along an L-shaped route through Louisiana to reach Dallas for a night, drove across a lot of nothing to get to the next Texan city of Amarillo, and completed a drive across the whole of Texas and the beginnings of New Mexico to arrive at Albuquerque.

To describe the South is hard, after such sensory overload in a new place; and unfair, after such a brief glimpse. But with those caveats, I think it's worth sharing. Driving from Maryland and Virginia into the Carolinas, the weather changed palpably from cold rain to warm yellow. I saw cotton fields for the first time; in Georgia we stopped to pick some, probably illegally; in Texas we were surprised to see miles of cotton and picked those as well. Caitlin had said they smelled like earth, and she was right, and Georgia earth smelled different from Texas earth. Against all overexposure and desensitization, I always feel pleasant surprise at seeing pure white lying so low to the ground (snow, salt, cotton).

We met Charleston SC at nighttime, where the homes have long wide columns, side porches, gates guarding gardens and fountains, and painted family portraits visible through windows. The street and house lamps burn real fire, and the trees and gates stand close to the homes, creating quietly gorgeous shadows. After the night sun takes over for the fire, though they keep the fire during through daylight too. Savannah was more developed and less striking than Charleston, but we did find plenty of magnolia trees, oak trees, and Spanish moss hanging off the oak trees. The drive through Georgia was populated by peach tree orchards, baby pine farms, and lots and lots of cotton.

I fell asleep for a good chunk of the drive through Alabama, due to the sun and to the Faulkner audio book playing in the car (Light in August: worthy to read and very Southern, but listening to books read aloud by strangers hasn't grown on me yet). I went to my first Waffle House in Alabama, and I remember Mississippi being very pretty with its water and expansive fields, and I also remember this day being a daze of a drive. Once in New Orleans, Caitlin snapped me out of it with rapid fire commentary on every street, home and billboard in her hometown. She took me round to all the good eats (crepes, beignets which I called French doughnuts which offended someone, ice cream, burgers & milkshakes), and drove me down St. Charles and her favorite street and Bourbon St in the French Quarter, stopping every few moments so I could take pictures of the incredible houses and balconies. She also introduced me to her tall kind lovely parents, showed me turtles in her favorite park, had our hair cut at her go-to hair salon, and had our pictures taken in a photobooth at a local bar; these parts were best for being specific to her and her home.

From there we had a long drive to Dallas; we didn't have much time to see the city, but we had our own kind of experience through Texas as we drove from there to New Mexico. Between Dallas and Amarillo there is a whole lot of nothing, and it was the first time on the trip that we felt like we were in the middle of nowhere, with mostly trucks on the road and no rest stops for a hundred miles at a time and speed limits of 80 and skies absolutely clear (we saw exactly one cloud). There is something really calming about driving across entire states, sensing both the immensity of things and the fluidity of lines. This made for the best day of the trip, with a soothingly empty landscape of concentrated red dust on either side of us, sometimes suddenly broken by unusual beauty--small sunflowers growing like weeds, a cluster of leaveless trees with gnarled branches, a dilapidated farm house, a field of what we'd call ranch country, stretches of what we called prairie grass--lightly tinged at the top with maroon and purple in a way that seemed unreal, in the way that its faint color could make you feel so much. There was also an adult video store every so often, standing on its own with nothing for miles before and after, because as Caitlin said, even the middle of nowhere needs that.

Once we arrived in Amarillo, we had our Texan experience over the course of five miles and an hour, none of which had been planned (we'd only known that Amarillo was the only city besides Dallas that showed up on our Google map route). This included a huge tacky road-side shop with a sign claiming "everything really is bigger in Texas" and a huge cowboy boot for evidence; breezing through a big warehouse of cowboy boots; a glance inside Hooters (neither of us had been to one and thought TX was a fitting place for our first venture); and a stop at Cadillac Ranch, a public art installation of ten Cadillacs vertically half-buried into the ground that people are free to spray-paint with whatever they fancy as they road-trip across Texas.

Then we were off for more flat landscape (this was our longest day, roughly 12 hours from start of driving to end) until we entered New Mexico, where the land changed dramatically to flat-topped canyons and crumbly ground sprinkled with little bushes. We arrived little before sunset, and drove until dark when the sky became dense with stars, and the outlines of mountains blended into black so that you had to squint to see if they were there. I've been to New Mexico before, but entering it this way felt new. We drove fast in the dark blasting pop songs, and when we got into a neighborhood we stopped at a stop sign and got out of the car to dance outside barefoot (until a car came up behind us and we raced back).

I looked back at something I wrote on the cross country trip I took a few years ago: "When in your life you feel both brave and unsure and open to emptiness, drive across your country with your Thelma." Still believing this to be true, I know I'm lucky to be able to 1) feel this way, and 2) act on it; to not be stuck or closed in feeling or movement. We ended our trip with the hot air balloon fiesta in Albuquerque, getting up at 3 AM to catch the balloons inflating and rising from the heat of fire. It was funny to watch things float and fly after so many days on ground, funnier that I was content to stay in place. Until we left again.