amsterdam

It’s amazing how many places there are in the world that I had never given thought to and then fell in love with. The first time I experienced this was Utah; it’s a special memory for me in how new and strong the feeling was. I was absolutely amazed by the beauty, and in particular that I had never even known that Utah had anything in it to see. Then we drove through open roads with red rock flanking us, and my love for desert began and since then moments in the Southwest feel like a gift. Nowadays I talk to people about Utah and everyone nods in agreement, but I had no idea. Even though I played no part in making Utah, I thought this must be what discovery feels like.

Now Amsterdam is another place like this for me. I’ve never thought about visiting the Netherlands, but I’ll pretty much travel anywhere new when the opportunity arises so when my brother suggested it , I got excited about the exploration. But I had no expectations; I had no image at all of what Amsterdam looked like. In fact, my image might have been a little dreary because my only encounters with it were 1) when I passed through it on our way to Prague and I was sad that I got an Amsterdam stamp in my passport instead of a Prague one, and 2) when I read Ian McEwan’s Amsterdam and found it to be too dark and boring.

But, I loved it. Of all the major European cities I’ve visited (London, Paris, Rome, Florence, Venice, Athens, Prague, Brussels, Vienna), it is my favorite. Of course there are lots of countries I haven’t been to that may have competing cities—Ireland, Spain, Portugal, Germany. But as of now it’s Amsterdam. For my brother it’s become second to Paris. While Paris has the unparalleled appeal of mind-blowing big-city glamour and culture, I’d argue for Amsterdam for the following:

1) The water: Water is everywhere, and even though I’d read about canal cruises, I didn’t quite picture how the city is built atop water. People live in houseboats, and on cobblestoned streets lining canals, and there are hundreds of small and large canals and bridges. It’s just really cool to see water everywhere, how the reflections change through the day and night, and see visually how the city has been built around this natural force.

2) Bikes: People bike everywhere, more than any other city I’ve visited, and everything in the city is catered to bikes first. It gives the city a very quaint, freeing feeling, and it also creates a different kind of city community feel when you can see everyone and everyone is outside while commuting.

3) Language: I haven’t heard much Dutch, and thought it was very pretty. It’s less harsh than German, less self-aware than French. Also, everyone speaks English with a pretty accent. I love that the people are open to using English and the idea of being bilingual in general. There’s something about language—that I’m sure linguists have described much more eloquently—that opens up more avenues of thought and experience. I took more French in college not so much to communicate (my accent is pretty horrible and I’d be afraid to talk to anyone French), more to learn about structuring sentences and learning words, exploring nuances that are beyond direct translation. I think it’s nice that people in the Netherlands are so open to this, where I’ve found other countries in Europe can sometimes distinguish one language as superior to another.

4) Low-key openness: I guess this comes from being a less popularized European city, but overall the city is much more relaxed and less touristy than others I’ve been to. Besides that there is a general openness that feels akin to the Bay Area (the first country to have legalized gay marriage; prostitution is a fairly respectable occupation with health benefits and regulation; etc) without some of the judgment against those less liberal that can sometimes be seen in the Bay Area.

Some downsides include that it's a little expensive like other places in Europe, and the food isn't as memorable as other European cities. But overall, it’s just a beautiful, beautiful city with gorgeous architecture (old and modern), and narrow streets tucked full of images that remind me of how much exists that I haven’t yet discovered.